Puri Saren Agung (Royal Palace of Ubud)

In the heart of Ubud, Puri Saren Agung is the palace of the royal family that once governed this region of Bali. Built mainly in the nineteenth century, it occupies the corner of the main street and central market. Still the residence of the royal family, it hosts traditional Balinese dance performances in its inner courtyards each evening. It is one of the few Balinese royal palaces still inhabited and open to the public.

Practical information at a glance

• Entrance: free to visit the outer courtyards; paid tickets for evening dance performances
• Dress code: sarong and sash required (often provided at the entrance)
• Recommended duration: 30 to 45 minutes for a visit; 1.5 hours for a dance performance
• Access: in central Ubud, walking distance from Ubud Market

What you'll see

The palace consists of several courtyards (jeroan) connected by carved gates in grey volcanic stone. Open pavilions (bale) with thatched or red-tiled roofs house fresh offerings renewed daily. The walls are decorated with bas-reliefs depicting Hindu mythological scenes. Vegetation — frangipani, banana plants, palms — structures the spaces between buildings.

History and context

Ubud was long ruled by the Sukawati dynasty. The current palace was largely developed during the reign of Tjokorda Gde Agung Sukawati in the twentieth century, who forged close ties with Western artists such as Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet. This relationship transformed Ubud into Bali's artistic centre. The royal family still resides in part of the palace, lending the site rare authenticity.

Highlights of your visit

Evening dance performances

Each evening, the palace's inner courtyards host traditional Balinese dance performances — Legong, Barong or Kecak depending on the night. Dancers perform by the light of torches and traditional lamps. It is one of the most authentic settings in which to experience these performances in Bali.

Architecture of gates and pavilions

The candi bentar (split gates) and kori agung (ornamental gates) exemplify classical Balinese architectural style. The Andesite stone sculptures depict guardians (dvarapala), demons and floral motifs of great precision.

Daily offerings

Early in the morning, members of the royal family and their servants place canang sari — small baskets of flowers and incense — before each shrine. Observing this quiet ritual gives a concrete sense of Balinese spiritual life.

Etiquette and visiting rules

• Wear a sarong and sash around your waist; pieces are available at the entrance if you don't have them.
• Do not enter private residential areas, which are clearly marked.
• Remain quiet and respectful during any ceremonies or rituals in progress.
• Do not touch offerings or sacred statues.

Photography tips

Morning light (before 9am) is ideal for photographing carved gates without crowds. In the evening, during performances, torchlight creates a warm atmosphere but requires a fast lens or high ISO sensitivity. Avoid using flash during performances.

Location and access

Puri Saren Agung is located at the intersection of Jalan Raya Ubud and Jalan Suweta, in central Ubud. Ubud Market is directly across the street. Most central Ubud accommodation is within walking distance. From Denpasar or Ngurah Rai Airport, allow approximately one hour's travel depending on traffic.

Nearby attractions

• Ubud Market — craft and food market located directly opposite the palace.
• Puri Lukisan Museum — Bali's first art museum, a few minutes' walk away, tracing the history of Ubud painting.
• Ubud Monkey Forest (Mandala Wisata Wenara Wana) — natural sanctuary and temple a ten-minute walk south of the palace.
• Pura Taman Saraswati Temple — lotus temple with dance performances, steps from the palace.