Special conditions
- The above itinerary may be modified without prior notice in the event of:
o Unforeseen weather conditions
o Force majeure
o Other safety reasons
- It is important to plan your expedition at least 2 months in advance.
- We are unable to guarantee fixed dates, but you can still book your expedition on dates that suit you. We will then suggest a date according to your availability. If the suggested date is not suitable, you can postpone your trip for up to 1 year.
- You may cancel your trip and have it refunded if the proposed dates are not convenient.
- Please bring all your mountaineering equipment that is not mentioned in "Included".
- Please do not leave any rubbish around the Carstensz pyramid and the base camp.
- Please also respect all government rules and instructions issued by your Mountain guide.
- It is important to stay focused during the expedition and to take care of your own safety. Don't hesitate to tell your guide if you have any problems.
- You must eventually inform your guide of your state of health before the start of the expedition.
Payment
- A non-refundable deposit of € 3,500 is required upon registration.
- The balance is payable 60 days before the start of the expedition.
Cancellation and Refund
You may cancel your registration under the following conditions:
- If you cancel more than 60 days before the start of the expedition, your deposit will not be refunded.
- If the cancellation is made less than 60 days before the start of the expedition, we reserve the right to withhold 50% of the remaining amount as an administration fee.
- If the cancellation is made less than 30 days before the start of shipment, we reserve the right to deduct a 100% handling fee from the balance.
CARSTENSZ PYRAMID
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Type Ascent with technical climbing Type Ascent with technical climbing
Difficulty 5.10 & climbing Difficulty 5.10 & climbing
Duration of ascent One long day Duration of ascent One long day
Altitude 4,884m / 16,023 ft Altitude 4,884m / 16,023 ft
First ascent by Harrer, Temple, Kippax and Huizenga in 1962. Heinrich Harrer is best known for his book "Seven years of adventure in Tibet".
Why climb Carstensz?
Carstensz peak is one of the famous “Seven Summits”, reaching an altitude of 4,884 meters, making it one of the most prestigious peaks in the world. Nestling in the heart of a tropical country with glaciers and snow, it is also Indonesia's highest point, within Lorentz National Park. Located in Indonesian Papua, this island abounds in cultural diversity, fascinating tribes and magnificent tourist sites, offering an enriching and unforgettable experience. What's more, climbing Carstensz can have a positive impact on local communities if the route passes through villages, contributing to their economy.
How do I get there?
The Carstensz pyramid is approximately 100 km from the nearest sea. It took several expeditions in the 1930s to get close to the base, as explorers had to find their way through steep walls and dense jungle. Heinrich Harrer successfully approached the pyramid using tracks on the northern slopes.
You can climb Carstensz from Timika or Nabire, in Indonesian Papua.
- To reach Timika, flights are available from Jakarta or Bali, with a stopover in Makassar.
- To reach Nabire, flights from Jakarta (with a stopover in Makassar) or Bali (with a stopover in Timika and/or Jayapura) are available.
From Timika or Nabire, you can reach the Yellow Valley’s base camp by:
- Helicopter
- Trekking from Sugapa or Ilaga (Papuan villages that van be reached reached by missionary plane), through dense rainforest.
Note: the central region of Indonesian Papua has been disrupted since 2019 by rebellions, which have forced the local authorities to close access to these regions. Since May 2024, only helicopter access has been authorized to reach the base camp of the Carstensz pyramid.
Climbing the Carstensz Pyramid
From the base camp, you’ll first follow the ridge that separates the base camp from the valley at the foot of Mt Carstensz.
You’ll then cross the valley to the "sandy spot" at the foot of the cliff (see photo below). Fixed (old) ropes have been placed on the first part of the climb, which is already quite steep (75 degrees). A little later, a long climbing section follows, with a steeper section from time to time. This section can be climbed with or without ropes, depending on your technical skills and/or mental attitude.
Two-thirds of the way along, you’ll come to a flatter "pebble" area. Follow the obvious path to the right and climb the western part of the summit ridge. From this point, you can see the Freeport gold mine and you’ll be looking south for the first time too.
On the - very narrow and sharp! - summit ridge, you'll cross a few crevasses. The first is not very wide, but wide enough to cross unsafely. You’ll then abseil down the wall and climb the one opposite. You’ll then continue along the ridge until you reach a larger crevasse.
You’ll abseil down again while not forgetting to leave the rope for the way back (it will be pretty difficult to climb the wall again otherwise)! At this point, you’ll have two choices: climb the wall straight away, or go another 100 meters to catch an easier route afterwards.
As you climb back up, you’ll soon come across another crevasse: again, not very wide, but very deep! There are some old ropes to help you cross it, but you’ll make sure they are in good condition before using them, as any mistake here is fatal.
You’ll continue along an even sharper ridge and cross the last crevasse: just like the previous one, narrow but deep… You’ll then continue your climb, crossing the ridge and skirting its southern flanks. It is at this point that you’ll catch your first glimpse of the summit. The rest of the ascent will take you along a very unstable rocky area.
Preparations
Before embarking on your adventure, you’ll need to prepare thoroughly. It is essential to reach an optimum level of physical fitness. You will also need to go through a period of acclimatization (because of the limited level of oxygen at high altitude) and train in mountaineering techniques to cope with the rocky challenges that await you. A medical consultation is also recommended to protect you against malaria, which is endemic in certain regions of Papua.
Insurance Requirements
For a safe expedition, you’re advised to take out travel insurance that includes medical cover, evacuation and repatriation. Cancellation insurance is also recommended to protect your investment in the event of unforeseen circumstances.
Hygiene & Meals
Given the nature of this expedition, facilities such as showers and washing machines are not available. You will however be able to shower at the hotel (in Timika) before and after the expedition. You will also be provided with balanced meals and hot and cold drinks, but weight restrictions limit the variety of food provided on the expedition.
Essential Technical Equipment
- Full mountaineering equipment.
- Plenty of rope (which can be left at the edge of crevasses).
- A rope clamp: very useful when you're tired.
- Good mountaineering boots. You can bring your own climbing shoes (but frostbite can quickly set in).
- Warm, waterproof clothing, as rain or even snow are not uncommon.
- Leather gloves to protect your hands from the bad weather and the sometimes sharp rocks.
Accommodation and Itinerary
In Timika, you'll stay in a good hotel before heading to the base camp, where you'll share a tent. A sharp itinerary is planned, including a return helicopter flight between Timika and the base camp, as well as meals and collective equipment.
Before you take off for the base camp, you’re advised to check with your Mountain guide and the pilot that the weather conditions are good. Take their recommendations into account to avoid additional costs in the event of an unscheduled return to Timika.
Helicopter Flight Conditions
Before each flight, the pilot assesses the weather conditions on the basis of reports provided by the local authorities. If the pilot advises against the flight or recommends staying on stand-by and you decide to take the chance, you will be responsible for the cost of the entire flight if you have to return to Timika early.
An expedition to the Carstensz Pyramid in Papua is an exciting adventure that requires careful preparation but offers spectacular scenery and unforgettable challenges. Make sure you are well prepared, take out the necessary insurance and follow the guide's recommendations for a safe and rewarding experience.
