Merbabu: climbing the "mountain of ashes"

Ascent from Thekelan (Kopeng)

Recommended for experienced hikers

The most beautiful hike is probably the one that "crosses" the volcano from north to south, as the ascent from the north offers a gentler slope and the descent from the south offers superb views of Merapi. Note, however, that a section of the trail is tricky just below the summit coming from the northern slopes and not all hikers are necessarily prepared to tackle it.

This hike can be completed in one day by seasoned and experienced hikers, but it is recommended to spend the night on one of the summits. When climbing the volcano from Kopeng (to the north), the hike is nicknamed "the seven summits", as there are indeed seven summits, even though some of them are only small bumps during the ascent.

The closest starting point to Kopeng is the village of Thekelan (1,656 m altitude), where you must register at the tiny national park office. The ascent is long (6 to 8 hours) and you will need a hat and sunscreen as most of the trail is not forested. This of course has an advantage: the views are breathtaking, particularly towards the Sindoro and Sumbing volcanoes.

You will stop at four points in any case: at the "post" Pending (1,924 m) first, then at the "post" Pereng Putih (2,150 m), at the "post" Gumuk Menthul (2,336 m), where there is a water source, and finally at the "post" Lempong Sampan (2,495 m). Fit hikers should not take more than 2 hours to reach the 4th "post", but your porters may need more time.

After these four "posts", you will see the seven summits. The first is Watu Gubug (2,735 m) and the second, at 2,900 m, is more obvious and is called Watu Tulis (or Pemancar or even Menara - "tower" in English). There is an old radio mast here. It takes approximately 3 hours to reach this point, where you will also meet the trail that leads to Cunthel (or comes from it).

After Watu Tulis/Menara/Pemancar, the trail descends slightly to Batas Kabupaten (2,825 m), a short cement pillar marking the district boundaries, and also known as Pos 3 Wekas. This is where you meet the trail coming from Wekas, the third route from the northern slopes. Just before the beginning of the ascent to the third summit, you may observe a water source near a crater area. This is a large outcrop of white/yellow sulfurous clay soil. You will then smell sulfur in the air. Then you descend along a trail to your right and, if you're lucky, you may clearly hear a stream below. This area is a popular camping spot for those who don't want to hike to the highest summits.

Continuing along the ridge, the ascent to the third summit begins at a flat area known as Helipad (2,975 m), where there is a visible memorial. On the right you will see a small attractive summit called Gunung Kukusan, which, oddly, does not appear on the "seven summits" list. The third summit, Geger Sapi (2,987 m), is not really a summit at all, but rather a small bump in the steep and relentless climb to the fourth summit. This section is known as Jembatan Setan (devil's bridge) and offers superb views to the north (from certain angles, the ridge resembles Machu Picchu).

When you reach the summit ridge (3,080 m), you can turn left to climb the final meters (less than ten minutes) to the fourth summit, Puncak Syarif (3,119 m). This is a fabulous place to camp, with views of the Sumbing & Sindoro volcanoes, the highest peaks of Merbabu, as well as Merapi.

The sixth summit, close to the true summit and called Kenteng Songo (3,142 m), is another good camping spot. To reach the sixth summit from the fourth, you must descend and walk along the ridge between the two summits. The trail actually skirts the southeast side of the fifth summit, Ondo Rante (3,100 m), before the final steep climb to the sixth summit. Both Ondo Rante and the steep section below Kenteng Songo are somewhat challenging, but while Ondo Rante can be avoided, if you climb Merbabu from this side, you will need to be very careful on a steep and rocky section of cliff and then scree with some exposure.

Kenteng Songo greets you with many signs at the summit and appears to be the most popular of all the summits, particularly at sunrise on weekends, when many hikers start their ascent from Selo. The most interesting feature is the presence on the summit of ancient-looking stone jars, which resemble miniature versions of the famous stone jars of Laos, near Phonsavan. Just a stone's throw from the sixth summit is the seventh summit - Triangulasi - whose highest point (3,145 m) is, as it should be, a pile of stones and a blue cement rock. Triangulasi is the true summit of the Merbabu volcano, with its three meters higher than Kenteng Songo.

It is then time to descend to Selo (the village nestled between Merbabu and Merapi). The trail starts from Triangulasi and Kenteng Songo. It will take you at least 4 hours to reach the village and your knees will be put to the test. You will pass notably through Jemblongan, Pos 5 Savana 2 (2,874 m) and Pos 4 Savana 1 (2,782 m), which are all very popular with campers.

After the steepest part of the descent, the trail splits at "post" 3 (2,574 m). The left option (more to the east) is probably the best choice. It allows you to cross an open forest that becomes denser as you descend through "posts" 2 (1,436 m), 1.5 (2,257 m) and 1 (2,181 m), before the alternative route joins the main trail. You will reach a pine plantation and suddenly spot the village that marks the exit from Mt Merbabu national park, as well as the end of a fantastic hike. The starting point of the Selo trail is at 1,850 m.

The Cunthel trail: The base camp is at 1,670 m. Cross the pleasant village and climb the cement track which ends at 1,770 m altitude. The trail first passes through a pleasant forest and has several posts as follows: .... Bayangan 1 (1,856 m) where there is a decent shelter, Bayangan 2 Gumuk (2,109 m), Pos 1 Watu Putut (2,233 m), Pos 3 Kedokan (2,429 m), Pos 3 Kergo Pasar (2,570 m). It takes no more than 3 hours to reach Menara, where you will meet the Thekalan trail. This trail is a good option for descending to the north (i.e., towards Salatiga and Semarang).

Ascent from Thekelan and arrival at Selo

Hiking time Between 12 and 14 hours

Elevation gain 1,490 m

Elevation loss 1,295 m

Ascent from Selo

Recommended for experienced hikers

Alternatively, we can offer the ascent of Merbabu volcano as a round trip from Selo. The first day is devoted to climbing to the Sabana camp where you will bivouac. In the middle of the night, on the second day, you will climb the last 300 m of elevation gain to reach the Kenteng Songo peak just before sunrise. Return then to the base camp, then Selo.