Bali, Ascent of Agung volcano

Ascent from Besakih temple

Recommended for experienced hikers
The ascent to the summit of Mount Agung from Pura Besakih typically takes around 6 hours, with many hikers choosing to begin their climb at night to reach the peak in time for a breathtaking sunrise. Pura Besakih is not just one temple, but an expansive complex of temples that stretches up the mountainside. For most visitors, the first striking sight is the series of towering meru, the multi-tiered shrines with their black palm-fiber thatched roofs pointing skyward. The meru's core is an open square tunnel, which allows deities, ancestors, and spirits to descend during ceremonial occasions and take their place in the shrines at the base. In this sense, Besakih serves as a sacred "landing ground" for the gods.The central temple of the Besakih complex, Pura Penataran Agung, is dedicated to the god Shiva.
To the north-west, behind Pura Agung, lies Pura Batu Madeg (Temple of the Standing Stone), which is dedicated to Wisnu. On the south-east side, crossing a ravine, is Pura Kiduling Kreteg (South Bridge Temple), dedicated to Brahma. In total, 19 other temples are scattered along the slopes of the volcano, each serving a specific purpose and associated with its own ceremonial season. However, the three temples dedicated to the Hindu trinity—Shiva, Wisnu, and Brahma—are the most significant. Almost daily, groups of villagers visit to pray and collect holy water, which they then take back to their local temples for ceremonies or to honor the gods after completing complex rituals. Each temple within the complex holds its own annual ceremony, and every ten years, the grand Panca Wali Krama purification ritual takes place. This event, a renewal of the island's sacred bonds with the divine, draws nearly all of Bali’s inhabitants as they come together to refresh their connection with the gods.
To reach the summit just in time for sunrise, you’ll need to allow about six hours for the hike, including roughly 45 minutes for rest. This means you’ll be starting your adventure—an incredibly demanding yet unforgettable experience—around midnight. The first 45 minutes take you to the Mother Temple (927 m), after which you continue through vegetable plantations on a well-trodden path used by locals and pilgrims alike, leading you to the last temple, Pura Bangpuhan (1,180 m), within the Besakih temple complex. Beyond this temple, you’ll cross a car park before the trail begins to descend slightly, only to ascend again as you pass two recently cleared fields. This section takes about 20 minutes, and it ends at the entrance to the forest (1,316 m), where the real challenge begins.
For the next three to four hours, a reliable torch or, even better, a high-quality headlamp is crucial, as the thick forest canopy blocks out any moonlight from reaching the trail. The first hour and a half is steep but manageable, with some flatter sections along the ridges providing brief relief. This initial third of the climb concludes at a spot called the "super root" (1,723 m), where you'll encounter a very steep section of the path lined with enormous roots, offering solid footing as you push on.
The next two hours are incredibly tough, with steep inclines and often treacherously slippery sections. It's during this stretch that you'll truly grasp why Agung is considered one of the most challenging volcanoes to summit in Indonesia. Unlike most European mountains that wind their way up the flanks, the path here goes straight up to the summit. As you reach 2,200 meters, the forest starts to thin out, and the trail becomes rockier, often covered in loose gravel, adding another layer of difficulty. After four hours of slow, grueling ascent, you finally arrive at the base camp (2,622 meters). This area offers limited space for just a couple of tents and is frequently used by local hikers as a resting point before making the final push to the summit for sunrise.
The next section, 300 meters long, climbs to just over 100 meters above sea level and is the only part of the entire ascent where extreme caution is necessary. This is the sole area where a fall could send you over the edge, resulting in serious injury. The final hour of the climb remains steep and frustratingly slow, but you push through to reach the last cone of the volcano, which is rocky at its base. The final 100 meters before the first summit are less steep, offering a breathtaking view of Agung’s highest point, located around 350 meters to the east. At this stage, you must remain cautious of the trade winds, which can gust up to 100 km/h. Several cracks in the ground offer shelter from these cold, biting winds. The first western summit, though not the highest, is just 10 meters lower than the true peak and is listed on the map as standing at 3,028 meters above sea level.
The last 15 to 20 minutes along the ridge to the real summit are a real challenge.

Ascent from Pasar Agung temple (to the antecima or summit)

Recommended for experienced hikers
The ascent of Agung from Pasar Agung temple is typically considered the easiest route to reach the antecima, though not the summit. However, it is possible to reach the summit from Pasar Agung, as halfway up the path to the antecima, there is a junction that branches off to the west, leading to the actual summit. This route is best suited for experienced climbers.
Your guide will meet you at the Pasar Agung temple car park (1,600 m). From there, the hike begins with a climb up 297 steps leading to the temple. Upon reaching the temple gates, the guide will make an offering to the gods, requesting their forgiveness and protection for a safe ascent and descent. At this point, it is customary for hikers to pay their respects by lighting a few sticks of incense and placing them on one of the shrines, offering a brief prayer as a gesture of reverence for the people and culture of Bali.
The path begins by skirting around the temple to the left, passing two water tanks that offer a wonderful view of the temple. It then passes through a small gap in the woods and immediately enters a dense, steep tropical forest. The trail ascends sharply, narrowing as it winds through deep ravines, with the roots of countless large, majestic trees scattered across the path. You’ll often need to step over these roots using both your hands and feet. If you’re starting around midnight to reach the summit for sunrise, a reliable torch is essential to illuminate the trail. A headlamp is particularly practical as it allows your hands to remain free.
After about an hour, the forest gradually opens up, becoming lighter and less dense. The trail eventually reaches a small concrete dam that channels rainwater from the upper mountain region through PVC pipes to reservoirs just above the Pasar Agung temple. This dam typically marks the first third of the journey. At this point, the path flattens for a few meters, providing excellent views on the return leg.
After a brief, flatter stretch across a small ridge, the path steepens again, this time crossing the first rocky surfaces. The forest begins to thin out, and with each meter of elevation, the views of Bali below become more spectacular. This section can be slippery, especially following recent rains. There are a few short, steep drops that may require you to use your hands for extra stability, but nothing too challenging. The next segment involves about an hour of continuous steep hiking, ending when the vegetation clears and the terrain transitions into pure volcanic rock.
At this point (2,425 m), many hikers opt to continue towards the antecima, which is more easily accessible. The final third of the trail leading up to it is very steep, rocky, sometimes slow, and often slippery, but the effort is well worth it for the stunning views that unfold in every direction. To the south, two-thirds of Bali, including the coastline, as well as the nearby islands of Lombok, Nusa Lemongan, Nusa Penida, and Nusa Dua, lie below. To the west, you can see all of Bali's mountain ranges, including the impressive volcanoes of East Java, looming in the misty distance. And directly ahead, the rugged peak of the Agung volcano on the left, separated by a deep volcanic ravine that is impossible to cross.
The final third of the ascent takes between 1 and 1.5 hours of hard work and focuses on climbing at high altitude. The last 75 meters are less steep, and the path suddenly becomes easier, much to your relief. The view from the antecima (2,866 m) is breathtaking, showcasing the volcanic landscape at its finest. Your guide seizes this moment to make offerings and prayers to the gods, expressing gratitude for the group's safe journey and the joy of reaching the crater.
The descent is long and challenging, taking nearly as long as the ascent itself.

Summit ascent (from Besakih)
Trekking time         Between 12 and 14 hrs round trip
Difference in heights     + / - 1.850 m

Summit ascent (from Pasar Agung)
Trekking time         Between 10 and 12 hrs round trip
Difference in heights    + / - 1,430 m

Ascent to the antecima (from Pasar Agung)
Trekking time         Between 7 and 9 hrs round trip
 Ascent             + / - 1,265 m