Renting a car in Bali and driving yourself is tempting, especially since it's inexpensive. However, it's best to know what to expect and prepare accordingly, as it's a 'different world'.

License and Insurance

You must have an international driving license, which is free and issued by your local government office. Keep it on you at all times in Bali, otherwise the police will seize the opportunity to fine you (or rather, they'll propose an "immediate" fine to spare you a trip to the station; 50,000 IDR is the standard, though they may ask for more).

For motorcycle driving, verify that your international license includes the motorcycle category with the appropriate engine displacement. If you don't have a motorcycle license at home, you're not permitted to ride a scooter in Bali. You'd be in an illegal situation, like the majority of English-speaking riders who are unaware of these regulations. What you risk is a legal fine or having to slip 50,000 IDR to the officer to let you continue. To avoid such situations, visit the main police station in Denpasar and purchase a one-month scooter riding permit for approximately $25.

Travel with comprehensive insurance, as standard "all-inclusive" rental coverage rarely includes personal injury protection. Preferably pay for your car or motorcycle rental with a Premier/Gold credit card, as these typically include insurance with possible repatriation. Keep your insurance contact details with you. Remember that medical expenses in Bali are substantial, and insurance will be requested before any treatment.

Also carry documents for identification, your hotel address, and copies of your identity papers. It's tempting to head out surfing with just your board and swim trunks. The French Consul recounted years ago how a comatose accident victim, whose path crossed that of a dog, was found without any identifying documents. He remained unidentified for several days and ultimately died because no one could identify him, authorize treatments, and cover the medical bill.

In case of accident, you'll most likely be deemed responsible. Notably because Balinese drivers are either uninsured or underinsured, and they know you are. Often cars and motorcycles are rented without comprehensive insurance (it's up to you to request it, knowing it may not cover all damages).

Know also that the rule is: no matter where you come from or what happened, if you touch someone, even if they came from nowhere, you're responsible!

Accidents are rare, no more frequent than in France, but they tend to be more serious as they often involve motorcycles. You may also occasionally spot trucks in ditches—probably after a risky overtake. You'll notice on-site that Balinese cars have fewer dents than ours, testament to generally more 'careful' driving despite appearances. However, know that scooter accidents are the number one cause of tourist death in Bali.

Driving Rules

Driving in Bali is on the left side of the road. This alone is quite disorienting for drivers or motorcyclists unaccustomed to it. But above all, Balinese driving follows rules that aren't rules for us! Forget everything you've learned! You'll be overwhelmed from all sides by scooters that barely respect your turn signals, nor traffic priority or center lines. You'll likely be shocked by the apparent nonchalance of Balinese driving*. They're certainly fatalistic and believe in reincarnation, but when you see trucks occupying the central portion of a road meant for two cars, you'd think you might as well believe in it too…

Roads are often littered with trees, piles of sand (houses under construction), plus wild parking of cars, trucks, and motorcycles that seems to follow no rules whatsoever. You must also watch for various animals (chickens, dogs, cats, ducks…) that frequently cross the road, day and night…

Also consider, in no particular order:

• Potholes (often crater-sized!)
• Very poor signage for directions and hazards
• Heavily congested city centers
• Lack of lighting at night outside major cities
• Numerous poorly marked intersections with no traffic lights or stop signs
• Sometimes steep climbs and descents with poor safety measures on mountain roads

For all these reasons and more, it's inadvisable for those unprepared or inexperienced to take the wheel or handlebars. Beyond disrupting traffic or simply struggling, you could cause accidents. Alternatives exist, are very accessible, and inexpensive: taxis and of course, drivers.

A driver with car costs from 500,000 IDR per day, plus fuel. These drivers are entirely at your disposal and furthermore: they know the roads and are genuine guides. Often independent, you also have the satisfaction of directly supporting a Balinese worker.

For short journeys, there's the taxi. In this case the meter is just an accessory (you can ask the driver to use it), often the fare is negotiated upfront. Except when departing from Denpasar airport, where you must go through a counter with fixed fares, which prevents overcharging.

For others—those who love driving and want freedom of movement, those capable of adapting—driving in Bali can be a wonderful experience…

*Balinese drivers actually drive very well. They don't have our rules, signs, or traffic lights, but possess an acute sense of responsibility, a marvelous evaluation of trajectories and speeds, extreme attention… which only works if no one uses a different system or doubts it—you, for instance.