Nestled at the foot of Mount Abang on the eastern shore of Lake Batur in Bali, the village of Trunyan deserves its reputation for being truly singular. While the Island of the Gods is celebrated for breathtaking landscapes of remarkable diversity, the way of life of its people and their traditions are equally captivating. Here, in this small village steeped in mystery, the inhabitants known as the Bali Aga strive to protect themselves from outside influence in order to safeguard their ancestral heritage. Most notably, they observe a distinctive funeral rite in which the bodies of the deceased are left to decompose in the open air—a practice as unique as it is profound, which you may witness during your journey off the beaten path in Bali.

Discovering the Village of Trunyan

Trunyan (a name derived from two Balinese words, "taru" meaning tree and "menyan" meaning fragrant) is a small traditional village situated on the eastern shore of Lake Batur, just below Mount Abang. It was one of Bali's most isolated villages until a road was constructed in 2006. The people of Trunyan proudly assert their descent from the Bali Aga, the "original Balinese." They continue to live according to ancient traditions and distance themselves as much as possible from external influences.

What Makes Trunyan Distinctive

Among these many traditions, what has made Trunyan renowned is undoubtedly its unconventional funeral rite. Unlike the common practices in other Balinese villages, the Bali Aga neither bury nor cremate their dead. The deceased are wrapped in cloth and placed beneath bamboo cages. They are then transported by boat to the village of Kuban to be deposited beneath a tree over 1,000 years old. This choice is far from arbitrary. It is a Taru Menyan tree, which emits a fragrance similar to incense. The aroma from the Taru Menyan serves to mask the odor of decomposing bodies.

Trunyan is home to three cemeteries, all situated outside the village and accessible only by boat. The first is Semah Wayah. This site is reserved for married individuals and those who died of natural causes. Only these deceased are wrapped in white cloth and surrounded by bamboo cages. Those who died from unnatural causes—victims of accidents or suicide—are taken to Semah Bantas. Children and those who were unmarried are placed at Semah Muda.

It is possible to arrange a day visit to Trunyan, though it is important to know that what you will encounter is quite particular: skeletons, skulls, and human remains rest on the ground beneath a tree. Of course, it is not recommended to bring children or those of sensitive disposition. Visits must be undertaken with complete respect for the tradition and its people.

In the village, you will also discover a magnificent temple, Pancering Jagat. This is among the oldest temples in Bali. It houses a megalithic statue four meters high representing the Bali Aga deity: Bhatara Datonta.

Formerly, Trunyan was accessible only by boat. Today, you can reach it by car, though the road is quite steep and even treacherous in places. To get there, the first step is to travel to the Kintamani region in Bangli district. From there, you descend toward Lake Batur and proceed to the end of the road (the shore opposite the natural hot springs).