Kehen Temple
Kehen Temple
A Hindu sanctuary built in terraces on the outskirts of Bangli, Pura Kehen features a monumental staircase, a centuries-old banyan tree, and three tiered courtyards dedicated to the gods.
The Kehen Temple (Pura Kehen) is a Hindu sanctuary built in terraces on the slope of a hillside, on the outskirts of Bangli, in the village of Cempaga. Its tiered silhouette, 48-step staircase, and centuries-old banyan tree make it one of the most accomplished temples in eastern Bali.
Why visit Kehen Temple
Less crowded than the great coastal sanctuaries, Pura Kehen offers a clear reading of classical Balinese religious architecture: three tiered courtyards, volcanic stone sculptures, and a multi-tiered meru. The site is surrounded by tropical vegetation and preserves the atmosphere of a village temple, still actively used for ceremonies.
The appeal is threefold: architectural (the monumental staircase and bas-reliefs inspired by the Ramayana), historical (more than eight centuries of documented religious occupation), and religious (the temple hosts the annual Pagerwesi festival).
History of Pura Kehen
According to historians, the temple is believed to have been built around 1206, with its plans inspired by those of the Besakih Temple, in a more modest version. Inscriptions found on site document several successive names:
- Hyang Pi toward the end of the 9th century
- Hyang Kehen in the early 11th century
- Pura Kehen, its current name, attested in a 13th-century inscription
This documentary continuity is rare in Bali and makes the site a precious witness to the evolution of Hinduism on the island.
What to see on site
The staircase and portal
Access is via a 48-step staircase leading to a large gate adorned with a dragon's head. On either side of the steps are statues of animals carved from volcanic stone (elephants, dragons, tortoises) representing characters from the Ramayana, the Indian epic.
The three courtyards
The complex is organized into three successive zones, following the classical scheme of Balinese temples:
- Jaba pisan, the outer courtyard, where a banyan tree several centuries old (estimated at over 400 years according to local tradition) stands; its roots enclose a kukul, an ancient observation shelter. A megalithic stone surrounded by a fence here receives offerings.
- Jaba tengah, the middle courtyard, a transitional space.
- Jero, the main courtyard, which houses several altars dedicated to the Hindu trinity (Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva) as well as an 11-tiered meru dedicated to the fire god.
Practical information
Dress code
Wearing a sarong (or pareo) is mandatory for all visitors. Shorts, bermudas, and short skirts are not permitted at the entrance. A sarong is generally available on site or can be purchased in advance from any souvenir shop.
Restricted access
Certain religious rules limit access to the temple:
- Pregnant women: entry not authorized
- Women menstruating: entry not authorized
- Children with baby teeth: entry not authorized
- Prayer areas: not accessible to visitors
Fees and visit duration
Entrance fees remain moderate (several tens of thousands of rupiah, roughly 1 to 2 EUR, to be confirmed on site). Allow 45 minutes to 1.5 hours for your visit, depending on your interest in sculptural details.
When to go
The temple can be visited year-round. The dry season, from May to September, offers the most comfortable conditions, without tropical showers in the middle of the day. Early morning remains the quietest and most luminous time to photograph the staircase and bas-reliefs.
The Pagerwesi festival, celebrated throughout the island according to the Balinese calendar (variable date, every 210 days), is particularly vivid at Pura Kehen: devotees in ceremonial dress, offerings, prayers directed to the deities and the deceased. The visit takes on another dimension, though crowds are larger.
How to get there
The temple is located on the outskirts of Bangli, in the village of Cempaga, along the main road (hard to miss). A few distance references:
- From Ubud: approximately 45 minutes' drive
- From Denpasar: approximately 40 km, or 1.5 hours depending on traffic
The simplest option is a car with driver or scooter for independent travelers. No direct public transport serves the site.
What to see nearby
The Bangli region and central Bali offer several complementary sites to pair with Kehen Temple:
- The Besakih Temple, the architectural model for Pura Kehen, on the slopes of Mount Agung
- The Bali Botanic Garden, in Bedugul, for a botanical pause at altitude
For travelers extending beyond Bali, Komodo Island and Rinca Island offer a completely different side of the archipelago.
Frequently asked questions
Frequently asked questions
Yes, wearing a sarong (or pareo) is mandatory to enter the temple grounds. Shorts and short skirts are not permitted. A sarong is generally lent or rented at the entrance.
Allow between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours depending on your interest in the architecture and sculptures. The site is compact but rich in detail.
No. For religious reasons, access is prohibited for pregnant women, menstruating women, and children with baby teeth.
Pura Kehen follows the plans of Besakih on a smaller scale. It is also considerably less crowded, allowing for a quieter and more intimate visit.
Pagerwesi follows the Balinese calendar and falls every 210 days or so. The date varies each Gregorian year; check with your guide or the Balinese tourism office before your visit.
Plan your trip
Kehen Temple fits naturally into an itinerary centered on central and eastern Bali, between Ubud, Bangli, and Mount Agung. To build your custom itinerary and combine culture, volcanoes, and villages, explore our trips to Indonésie.
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