With a population of around 60,000 inhabitants, Sumbawa Besar is the second-largest city on Sumbawa, an island renowned for surfing located east of the Bali Sea and west of Flores. This small coastal town was once the seat of the island's sultanate. Remnants of this sultanate and those from the Dutch colonial era are waiting to be discovered. Sumbawa is essential if you want to access the western part of the island by air. Indeed, the airport is located here.

History

From the 14th to the 17th century, Sumbawa Besar was part of the Javanese kingdom of Majapahit. However, the city and the island were relatively preserved from external influences due to their isolated location and distance from Java. In the 17th century, Sumbawa Besar became the capital of a sultanate dependent on the kingdom of Gowa, in present-day Makassar, south of Sulawesi. It was also during this century that the island of Sumbawa converted to Islam.

What to Do in Sumbawa Besar?

In the City

The number one attraction in Sumbawa Besar is the former three-winged residence of Mohammad Jalaludin III, the Dalam Loka. It was built in the 19th century and underwent its last renovation in the 1980s. The palace has now become a cultural center hosting various types of events. Nearby stands the city's largest mosque.

Balai Kuning is another notable building in Sumbawa Besar. Dating from 1932, it showcases a half-timbered style typical of Western architecture. Once home to the city hall, the building is now used primarily for representative purposes. Several objects from the sultan era, such as weapons and clothing, are displayed inside.

A carefully maintained park, guarded by two cannons and surrounded by enclosures for deer and horses, surrounds Balai Kuning. To the north of the park, on Jalan Merdeka, stands an imposing multi-level gate tower, which was once the main entrance to the property.

Across from Balai Kuning, along Jalan Merdeka, stretches the Taman Krato park, graced with charming pathways lined with palms and hibiscus. Nearby lies the Seketeng Market, the liveliest in the city and attracting many visitors.

Nestled in the heart of Sumbawa Besar sits the small Hindu temple Pura Agung Giri Gnatha, built in traditional Balinese style. Next to it, the Dutch Reformed Church (Gereja Masehi Injili di Timor), founded around 1900, stands out with its bell tower, which creates a striking contrast with Sumbawa Besar's numerous mosques. Towering over the city, the clock tower presides over a triangular square, the starting point of the three main commercial streets.

In the Surroundings

Some 12 km northeast of Sumbawa Besar lies the village of Poto Tano, known for its stilt houses and traditional ikat textile production. At the same distance, but in the opposite direction, stretches Pantai Kencana Bay, which captivates travelers with its pebble beach and Hindu temple.

The coastal town of Batu Gong is situated 14 km from Sumbawa Besar. Tourists come here to see its caves. The site has been a pilgrimage place for Hindus for over 400 years.

South of Sumbawa Besar, at 450 meters elevation, sits Batu Lereng, prized for its cool and breezy climate, with a natural pool formed by a river.

Further south, near the village of Semamung, hidden in a wooded area, lies the Air Beling Waterfall, standing 50 meters high. This area was once the hunting ground of the sultans.

Moyo Island is anchored 3 km off the coast of Sumbawa Besar. Its renown rests on magnificent beaches and coral reefs. A resort complex has been built there.

Finally, some 40 km northeast of Sumbawa Besar, rises Mount Tambora, famous for its cataclysmic eruption of 1815. Breathtaking panoramic views await you at the summit of this sleeping giant.

Surfing

Sumbawa is packed with surf breaks. Beautiful waves hit its western coast. It's easier to reach the breaks on this part of the island from Sumbawa Besar than from Bima, the island's largest city, nestled in the eastern part.

Practical Information

When to Visit This Part of Indonesia?

The best time to visit Sumbawa Besar and its surroundings is May to September, when sunny weather allows you to fully enjoy outdoor activities. It's also the best season for surfing.

By Air from Bali or Lombok

Sumbawa Besar is accessible by air from Praya (Lombok) and Denpasar (Bali). Trans Nusa airline operates direct flights from Bali. Sumbawa Besar Airport is located in the heart of the city.

By Ferry from Lombok

You can also reach Sumbawa Besar via Poto Tano, which is connected by ferry to Lombok. Once at Poto Tano, take a bus to the city. However, note that buses are not regular.